By: Vijay Kumar Verma (Editor-ICN Group)
SHIMLA: The next day, before venturing out we first enquire about the situation in the city at the reception of the hotel. I also glance through the local newspapers. We are naturally scared that it may not be another bandh called by the separatists. Fortunately everything is informed to be normal though we are advised to avoid the Lal Chowk area where some times the situation turns bad. I am curious about economics of the tourism business which is often halted by curfews imposed by the government as well as bandhs called by the separatists. I learn that the locals had become used to such things post militancy in the valley. But the situation must be telling on the income of poor shopkeepers, hawkers, boat people, auto drivers etc, as I show my concern. I am delighted to learn that the wealthy people are very hospitable and those who can afford offer free meals to the masses occasionally. It is ensured that no one goes to sleep on an empty stomach.
As we head for the biggest attraction of the city, the Dal Lake, we reach another beautiful garden on the bank its bank. Nishat Bagh, the ‘Garden of Gladness’ had been constructed in the 17th century by a senior noble of the Moghul court Mirza Abdul Hassan. The Garden had been constructed in 1634 after the accession of Shah Jehan as the emperor of India. The garden had been conceived in 12 majestic terraces representing the 12 signs of Zodiac. Inside we are greeted by the gardeners with flowers. They welcome tourists and also offer to sell seeds of the beautiful flowers adoring the garden.
However due to intense cold, many flowers had withered. We come across an old man who introduces himself as the chief gardener and had retired some years ago. He narrates the history of the garden as well as the films shot in these lawns some decades ago. Jab jab Phool Khile, Kashmir ki Kali, etc he tells were the popular films shot here. He also makes us pose in different styles and takes our pictures. They follow couples and tourists, especially the foreigners. The locals were seen picnicking and playing on the landscapes in sun.
From here we proceed towards the Moghul Garden, about 5 Kms away. Within the boundary wall we came across a sprawling garden spread in seven terraced steps. Fountains and flowing water pose a fascinating view. We came across more than 400 years old Chinar trees in the garden. Along the high boundary wall are houses which once upon a time belonged to the courtiers of the King. In the vast lawns student groups often organize musical programs for the entertainment of Shikara visitors. On the other end of the Garden is Baradari which used to be meeting point for the royals. On each side of this Baradari are old buildings which may have been the resting places for the royal clan members.
Every time we would drive along the Dal Lake, its waters would attract us for a ride though the cold breeze on the water surface must be all the more freezing we feel. There are a number of Ghats where these Shikaras are parked. The licensed Shikaras have been allocated the parking ghats. The rates of rides have also been fixed by the authorities and displayed prominently near the ghats. We choose a colourful Shikara at Ghat number 10. The boat has a comfortable cushioned resting place where in a half lying posture one can enjoy the sunshine on the cold day, dotted by the sound of rowing chappus.
I am reminded of the song sequences of Hindi films shot in these shikaras. I too feel like singing but the voice would tremble in the cold weather. Here we come across floating restaurants on the lake where we enjoy special Kahwa drink. It is soothing to handle the hot glasses in the shivering hands. Boat hawkers also reach us to sell their wares. As the Shikara sails through a floating market with shops from groceries to carpets and clothes we are surprised to find floating farms as well where we are told that vegetables and other seasonal crops are grown. We learn that a number of people reside in the lake houses.
Like motor cars, they own small boats to ferry across to the shore and also for buying their daily needs from the floating market. The lake is spread in about 26 kms area. We are told that surface water of the lake freezes to form a top ice layer at night which gets cracked with the movement of water and boats in the morning.
The view of House Boats lined up on the water is very inviting and we decide to spend the following day in the House Boat. We find that the rates for House Boats have also been notified by the authorities according to the quality of rooms and facilities offered. There are deluxe rooms, super deluxe rooms, suits etc like in hotels. These rates have also been displayed on the boards put up near ghats.
Interestingly some of these House boats have been named after countries viz New Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong etc. The next day as we reach there with our luggage to stay in the House boat, we also find a floating Post Office parked on the shore. As we head for houseboat named Hong Kong in the Shikara, we are enchanted by the warm reception accorded by the boat attendants packed in woollen phirans.
On the House boat we find that there were three spacious bedrooms past the drawing cum dining room. All the rooms are vacant to our surprise. The House boat attendants inform us that they were facing financial crises due to cancellations caused by the local unrest and strikes announced by the separatist groups. The guest occupancy in the Shikaras is very scant. We choose the most spacious room which has a dressing and sitting area besides an attached wash room.
The boat is fully carpeted and there are electric blankets on the beds in addition to room heaters. The dedicated butlers are at your command to cook and serve you as per your desired cuisine and palette needs. You are served politely in traditional Kashmiri style. As we come out to enjoy sun on the open terrace some hawkers in their boats reach us from nowhere to make us buy their ware.
The breeze is very cold even during the sunny day. They sell anything from saffron to ornaments and shawls etc. They are all good salesmen and are ready to bargain. The boat attendant also, as a good salesman, wants us to recommend the boat to our friends. (To be continued…..)
